How does straightening shampoo work and its long-term effects

The straightening shampoo is a product that promises to smooth, give shine and reduce the volume of the hair. But does it fulfill all this and is it recommended? To find out more, we talked to hairdresser, colorist, hair therapist and specialist in scalp and hair fiber treatment Gislaine Cândido and hair technician Carla Soethe. Check out!

What is the straightening shampoo and how does the product work on the hair?

The shampoo has a similar idea to the shower progressive. The straightening that this type of product provides is based on the chain of amino acids, as Carla explains: “The junction of amino acids has the conductive capacity to enter the fiber and, depending on the acid present, in this case, it can, yes, mess up the bridge sulfur content and the capillary structure, making it smoother and straighter”. However, for the results to be noticed, it is often necessary to activate the effect with a heat source.

Regarding the straightening process, Gislaine explains that the lower the pH of the product, the more closed the cuticle, thus providing a smoothing of the threads. The product straightens because its pH is generally less than 2 in acidity and the hair pH is between 4.2 and 5.8. “The more closed the cuticle with a low pH level, the more difficult it is for nutrients to penetrate the hair”, adds the specialist.

In the shampoo formula that straightens, Gislaine points out that there may be acids, such as glyoxylic acid – which, together with carbocysteine, is used to promote smoothing and decrease the volume of the hair. However, is it worth investing in shampoo that straightens? Here’s what the experts said.

Is it worth using the product and what care is needed?

For Gislaine, the product is not recommended. That’s because in the cosmetics market, there are several chemicals that can be made without harming the structure of the wires. In addition, Gislaine explains that this type of product, which can be sold for anyone to use at home, can pose a huge risk to the health of the hair. “All chemistry has to be handled by a qualified professional”, he concludes.

It is precisely the inappropriate use that Carla points out as the factor that can bring more risks, especially if used in excess and combined with other chemicals. That’s why Carla warns him: “Always cherish the trusted brand and original product. There are many products on the market that camouflage formaldehyde with other names and derivatives. That’s why it’s important to look for professional products and trusted brands so you don’t have any scare, valuing the strand test to achieve the best result”.

In addition, Carla emphasizes that it is necessary to keep an eye on excess amino acids. “Avoid excess amino acids when you want to do this treatment. So you have to protect your hair, preferably a week. This straightening shampoo should not be used in the first 7 days after a coloring or any chemical procedure, due to the low pH of the straightening shampoo, which can generate a cut in the hair fiber”, she concludes.

Finally, Carla makes an important warning: “It is recommended to give an interval of 30-60 days to do it again and always with the fiber diagnosis, because all fiber does not need just one nutrient, it needs several components. So using only the shampoo that straightens will harm the fiber, even more if you use it in excess”.

5 harms of using shampoo that straightens in the long term

Despite smoothing and bringing a certain shine to the wires, when used in excess and without professional monitoring, the shampoo that smoothes can bring undesirable effects. Keep an eye on the harm that can arise in the long term. Follow:

• Fades the color: “every straightening brings a fading in the wire, some due to overheating of flat irons”, comments Gislaine.
• Hair breakage and dryness: “The lower the acidity, the smoother the hair is because the cuticles are being closed, bringing shine, but this shine, in fact, is only on the outside and not on the inside. The more closed this cuticle, the wires cannot absorb nutrients later. That’s why she often breaks her hair”, explains Gislaine.
• Thinning of wires: if care is not followed, over time the straightened wires tend to become thinner and lifeless, with straight and split ends.
• Trichodynia: according to Gislaine, this type of product can cause trichodynia, which is pain in the scalp. This is due to the sensitivity that the scalp develops, in some cases, in response to excessive chemical procedures.
• Scalp scaling: This problem can cause microbiota dysfunction and generate other problems such as dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Even though there is no proof of the causes of dandruff, a scientific article by UNIVALI has shown that dandruff is susceptible to a number of actions, such as exposure to high temperatures, excess chemicals and inappropriate use of products.

In addition to avoiding excess chemistry, the tip is always to seek the guidance of a professional before doing these procedures. Another tip is to bet on a hair schedule to help with the recovery and health of the wires.