Moisturizing, anti-ageing, acidic: what is the order of beauty products? – GOOD SHAPE

Technological advances in cosmetics never stop. There are so many options that sometimes we get lost in how to apply each one of them. “People like to experiment. But, in practice, it is not common to keep rituals of treatments and sequences”, says dermatologist Ligia Kogos, from São Paulo. And, with social isolation, many people decided to take advantage of this period to start a skin care routine, even without much prior knowledge. In the end, how to use beauty products in the right way?

“Since the effects depend on habit and, once the novelty has passed, people tend to put them aside, my tip is to stick to easy schemes that do not overload the mind. skin and don’t spend a lot of time in front of the mirror”, recommends the specialist. And a piece of advice: take a good look at your necessaire and put the following tips into practice before your next purchase.

How to use beauty products?

1 – Anti-aging

Acts both in the prevention of agingpreventing wrinkles and flaccidity appear, as well as in combating the signs of aging. For this, it has assets antioxidants. “They are able to neutralize free radicals, which cause the destruction of the collagen and elastin”, explains the pharmacist specialized in cosmetology Maurício Pupo, from Campinas (SP).

Among the main antioxidants are vitamin C, capable of stimulating collagen and elastin production and lightening the skin, and the properties found in green tea, grape and olive oil.

Application order: after cleansing and toning the skin.

Application time: in the morning, followed by sunscreen, and at night. “There are people who only apply it once a day, but in that case, the effectiveness will be reduced by half”, says Pupo.

Amount: ideal for covering the entire face and neck is the equivalent of a level spoon (tea) of the product. Wait a few minutes for it to be absorbed before applying the makeup or the sunscreen.

Combination: it is not advisable to mix the anti-aging product with another type of cream, as this dilutes the concentration of the active ingredients and, consequently, their effectiveness.

2 – Acids

The most used are retinoic and glycolic. “They are excellent options for the treatment of stains and skin aging, as they accelerate cell renewal,” says dermatologist Daniela Schmidt Pimentel, from São Paulo.

Application order: for the acids to come into contact with the skin and be efficient, all fat must be removed. Wash with a specific soap for your skin type, dry your face well and then apply the acid.

Application time: should always be used at night, avoiding a possible reaction to the Sunas they can cause stains.

Amount: the general rule is to apply the equivalent of a 50 cent coin. Start with a very thin layer to get a feel for your skin’s tolerance.

Combination: the only association should be with sunscreen, with the face already washed. The mix with others moisturizing or actives can cause severe irritation.

3 – Lifting effect

Also known as the “Cinderella effect” cream, it has a tightening action, that is, it gives the skin that basic stretch, leaving the wrinkles less apparent. “This type of cosmetic creates an invisible film, which promotes the immediate aspect of firmness, temporarily leaving the face younger”, says Ligia.

Regarding the formulation, they usually rely on the proteins of the soy and wheat, which have a tensor effect, and hyaluronic acid, responsible for attracting water to the cells, filling the spaces between them.

Application order: after clean and dry skin. Makeup and sunscreen should be applied after a few minutes so that the cosmetic takes time to absorb.

Application time: minutes before that appointment where you want to put on a younger face.

Amount: the equivalent of 1 shallow teaspoon.

Combination: to prevent the tensor film from dissolving, never associate facial oilsanti-aging and brightening with acidic actives to full-bodied moisturizers or eye contour creams.

4 – Anti-stain

Improves the appearance of the skin, smoothing and, in some cases, even eliminating blemishes. All thanks to the actives that help to reduce melanin production or deposits, such as alpha-arbutin, vitamin C, kojic acid and niacinamide. “The gold standard for treating melasma it is the combination of retinoic acid with corticoid and hydroquinone”, says Daniela.

Application order: after washing your face so they can penetrate deeper.

Application time: the most efficient ones, with acids and hydroquinone, should be used at night and removed in the morning, when sunscreen comes into play. “That way, you avoid sensitization due to exposure to the sun and interaction with other ingredients that could dilute its action, such as silicones, butter, oils and glycerin”, says Ligia.

Amount: applied to the face and neckpass the equivalent of 1 level spoon (tea).

Combination: the only permitted and recommended association is with sunscreen, which must be applied in the morning and throughout the day.

5 – Night cream

The difference between night cream and day cream is that the first one has a more nutritious and regenerating action, because it has acids and other assets that are photosensitive. “In addition, it is usually more efficient, since it is during the night that the skin is more receptive to nutrients”, explains Daniela. Among the most used actives in formulations are: antioxidants such as vitamin C, retinol and specific peptides.

Application order: after washing your face.

Application time: minutes before going to bed.

Amount: apply the equivalent of a 50 cent coin all over your face.

Combination: if the function of the cream is just nourishing, it can be mixed with moisturizers, to mitigate their oiliness, or facial oils, to increase their effectiveness. But, if they are anti-wrinkle creams, with vitamin C or retinol, they should not be mixed so as not to dilute the active ingredients.

6 – Pore reducer

Reduces sebum on the skin, disguising the pores open, and, with time, decreasing their diameter. It has actives such as globular silica, which are deposited on the skin making the holes disappear, and polymeric silica, which enter the skin and absorb the sebum secreted by the glands. “Other efficient actives in the treatment are the derivatives of sulfur, sulfacetamide and vitamin C”, says Ligia.

Application order: always after washing and drying the skin well. Moisturizer, make-up, sunscreen and other cosmetics can come next.

Application time: for the morningand can be reapplied during the day if the skin looks oily or the pores are more open.

Amount: 1 spoon (coffee) for the whole face.

Combination: it can be associated with other cosmetic products, just remembering to apply it first.

7 – Antiacne

Prevents the acne, reduces the number of existing injuries, reduces skin oiliness and can treat dark spots left by the problem. These creams associate actives such as salicylic acid, which has exfoliatingand vitamin B3, responsible for reducing oiliness and fighting inflammation.

Application order: after using the facial soap (preferably with salicylic acid). Afterwards, apply a mattifying sunscreen.

Application time: always in the morning, followed by mattifying sunscreen, and at night, after washing your face.

Amount: enough to cover the area with acne.

Combination: once or twice a week, can be applied once mask concentrated green or black clay, which has a high concentration of sulfur, enhancing the elimination of fat. If you use moisturizer, prefer oil-free ones, such as gel, gel-cream and serum. And apply before the anti-acne product.

8 – Moisturizing

Reduces the loss of water of the skin caused by the natural process of evaporation, low temperatures, baths hot or by dermatological procedures, such as peelings and laser. For this, they have in their formulation actives that create a barrier in the skin tissue, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, almond, hazelnut, canola and shea butter oils.

Application order: always after washing and toning, and can be reapplied during the day without the need to wash your face again.

Application time: The dry skin may need more applications than the acneic one. “But, basically, hydration should be done in the morning and at night”, says Daniela.

Amount: it depends on the need for hydration: if it is low to moderate, cover the face with a thin layer. If it’s more dry, apply a generous layer. Rule of thumb: apply the equivalent of a 5 cent coin.

Combination: in cases of intense dryness, add one or two drops of specific oil for the face to the moisturizer. But avoid mixing with anti-ageing, whitening and products containing vitamin C, retinol or acids in order not to dilute the effectiveness. “If you want to use both, apply the stronger product first, namely those with vitamin C, retinol and other acids, and then the moisturizer”, recommends Pupo.