Progressive brush without formaldehyde –

Since the progressive brush with formaldehyde was banned by the National Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa), many fans felt a bit orphaned and to maintain the look they insisted on the method. Of course, they had to turn to “offenders”, that is, professionals who continued to make the original progressive, the one that uses formaldehyde. However, the cosmetic industry, attentive to the incessant demands of consumers, has developed products capable of changing the natural design of the threads without damaging them and with active ingredients that do not endanger health. Aldeni Ribeiro, from the Franck Provost salon, and Evandro Ângelo, from EV Salão, who are already working with the new products, tell all the details of the two new methods that do not require formaldehyde.

Smoothes, removes volume and tames curls

The method: Progressive Smoothing Nutri Straight Q8.,

What it is and how it works: The main component of the product is ammonia, a substance that, when in contact with the hair, manages to soften it, leaving it ready for a new model. In this case, straightening. The neutralizing liquid, indispensable after any chemical treatment, has a protein-rich formulation, nourishing the thread and ensuring that it remains soft, shiny and with a natural balance.

Recommendation: all types of hair, except afro.

Differential: there are versions of the treatment catering to the characteristics of each type of hair: damaged, colored and natural. On colored hair, the version of the product with an illuminating effect is applied, especially for maintaining the color’s shine; already in the damaged one, the version of the product that works as a keratin replenisher is used to recover the health of the threads. It can also be used just to remove volume or tame the most rebellious curls.

Step by step: after washing with a deep cleaning shampoo, excess moisture from the strands is removed with a hairdryer. The indicated product is applied to all the hair, which must be steamed for 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the curl and volume. It is rinsed before receiving the neutralizer – to rebalance the structure (which will act for 20 minutes). Another rinse and, finally, it’s time for the brush and plate. The strands will now be flat.

Result: “Any treatment, like this one, that doesn’t damage the thread, needs more than one application for the expected result. If the question is just excessive volume, the problem is solved in the first application. But when the intention is to completely get rid of the curls, at least one more application is needed”, explains Aldeni Ribeiro.

Care: wash only after 48 hours of application. It is also forbidden to tie the hair – even with a soft elastic band or small buckles.

Durability: three months until the hair returns to its original structure.

Smooth in a single session

The method: X-Tenso Progressive, L’Oréal Professionnel

What it is and how it works: product based on ammonium thioglycolate (an active principle that softens the hair fiber, leaving it malleable to be molded), developed with the so-called “cationic self-control technology”. In layman’s language, this means that it is able to preserve the keratin structures while smoothing, keeping the hair healthy.

Recommendation: any type of hair, including afro.

Differential: the hair remains strong and intact during all stages of the service. There are also versions of the product for sensitized threads (with previous chemistry or coloring); fine or tough (very curly). As it is activated by heat, if you use the dryer at home, the effect is even more beautiful. If you let it dry naturally, it won’t be super smooth, but it will lose volume.

Step by step: the hair is washed with a deep cleansing shampoo to open the cuticles. Apply the thioglycolate cream all over the hair, spreading it strand by strand. A 20-minute break gives the product time to work. The hair is rinsed and dried with a hairdryer (without a brush). The porcelain plate (with temperature controlled by the professional) is passed from root to tip. A liquid neutralizer is applied, strand by strand, keeping each one well stretched. There is another 15-minute break. Hair is rinsed and blow-dried (no brushing or flat iron required). The strands will now be flat.

Result: smooth and shiny strands right after application.

Care: the first wash must be after 48 hours. Also, during this period, you cannot get in the rain, tie your hair or use metallic dye (one that has aluminum or other minerals in the formula). Strands need specific products for straightened or chemically treated hair, which take care of replacing nutrients lost during the process, such as ceramides. “Besides serving as a treatment, they keep the effect smoothed for longer”, says Evandro Ângelo.

Durability: the result lasts until the root starts to show. Then it’s time for the retouching

say no to formaldehyde

Yes, there are salons that still offer the old version of the progressive brush – and, worse, clients who ignore the risks and are still willing to do anything to straighten their hair. There are two good reasons for you to rethink. First of all, dermatologists, chemists and hairstylists are unanimous: the technique is dangerous. And now we have formaldehyde-free techniques available.

Is the progressive brush with formaldehyde prohibited? Several salons do…

Yes. Those who do are acting against the law. Since May last year, the National Association of Sanitary Surveillance (Anvisa) has banned this treatment because it uses formaldehyde, a highly toxic component for the body. The maximum (and safe) amount allowed in cosmetic formulations is 0.2%, insufficient dosage to produce hair straightening. “To make curly hair straight, just use an amount far above the limit, which means putting your health at risk”, says dermatologist Valcinir Bedin, from the Institute for Research and Treatment of Hair and Skin, in São Paulo.

Does it really hurt?

Yes. “The use of formaldehyde beyond the limit described above can cause irritation in the eyes, nostrils, headache, irritation and wounds on the scalp and facial skin that come into contact with it, intoxication and respiratory problems. Repetitions only make the problem worse: injuries to the cornea, respiratory failure, and hair loss can occur,” warns dermatologist Claudia Marçal, from Campinas (SP).

What is formaldehyde anyway?

“Also known as formalin, it is a toxic colorless liquid, with a strong and characteristic smell, obtained from the dissolution of formaldehyde gas. It is worth remembering that it is irritating and, therefore, its use is indicated only in products that do not come into direct contact with the skin. It is used in the asepsis of surgical material in general and to preserve corpses because it has a bactericidal and antiseptic action”, explains chemical engineer, specialist in chemical compounds for industry, Alexandre Barbagallo, from São Paulo.

If it’s so aggressive, why does the hair look so beautiful after application?

Because to compensate for the harmful action of formaldehyde on the inner layer of the hair (the stuffing), the technique includes applications of high doses of concentrated keratin. “It forms a kind of film that wraps the strands, leaving them perfect on the outside and empty on the inside. After a few successive applications, the hair becomes sensitive, breaking even with a simple brushing”, says Evandro Angelo, hairstylist at the EV salon, in São Paulo.

But don’t the wires recover quickly if I stop doing it?

More or less. “New hair grows healthy, but what was damaged by the action of formaldehyde becomes fragile and brittle. For this very reason, regular sessions of reconstruction with keratin are indicated to recondition the thread that was, in a way, emptied”, explains Aldeni Ribeiro, hairstylist at the Franck Provost salon, in São Paulo.

If the formaldehyde ruins my hair, I try another straightening and that’s it.

Unfortunately it is not like that. Depending on the state of the hair, it may not be able to withstand another strong chemical and go into a process of severe weakening and falling out. Furthermore, not all active principles are compatible with each other. Only after a thorough analysis and a strand test, both performed by a specialized professional, can another technique be applied.

And do it at home? A friend of mine has an easy recipe with formaldehyde…

Forget the idea! To begin with, the sale of formaldehyde in pharmacies is prohibited. Think about it: if done by a professional who has studied hair and the like in depth, handling the substance is already dangerous, imagine doing it at home, without the minimum of care and knowledge.