How to whiten the skin: aesthetic treatments, products and homemade tips against blemishes

It is a fact that nowadays there are several treatments that allow the reduction or even the total removal of skin blemishes. But in order to get the desired result, it is essential to follow a treatment performed by a dermatologist, in a trusted clinic, because the use of products on your own is very risky and will hardly offer good results.

Sara Bragança (RJ), a postgraduate doctor in Dermatology, member of the Brazilian Society of Aesthetic Medicine, explains that there are currently several types of technologies on the market for this purpose, but the important thing is that the patient is examined to assess the degree of hyperchromia and, after a long anamnesis, the best treatment for that type of patient is chosen, always taking into account the patient’s phototype, degree of sun exposure and the patient’s recovery time according to their social and work activities.

Juliana Jordão (PR), postgraduate doctor in Dermatology, Titular member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology, Titular member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatological Surgery, with Specialization in Lasertherapy and Photodermatology, reinforces that there are several types of spots on the skin, and for each a there are treatment options.

“Spots in general do not always heal, most of the time, they lighten and remain with the result of improvement if there is care with solar prevention that could cause their recurrence” highlights dermatologist Juliana.

Among the most common stains in complaints at the dermatologist’s office, according to Juliana, are melanoses (freckles) and melasma. “It is extremely important to consult and indicate treatment with a dermatologist so that there is a correct differentiation and diagnosis between melanoses and melasma. The importance of the correct diagnosis, made by the dermatologist, is due to the fact that procedures used in melanosis have a great chance of worsening melasma spots and therefore should not be performed on skins with this diagnosis, under risk of significant worsening. Differentiating between the two diagnoses is not always easy and requires training and experience that only the dermatologist has”, she points out.

Melanoses X Melasma

Juliana highlights that melanoses, also known as freckles, respond very well to treatments with Intense Pulsed Light, CO2 laser, Q-switched laser or chemical peels. “These treatments, if correctly indicated, are safe and bring good results, however, when performed by untrained professionals, they can cause burns or even worsen pigmentation. Hand melanoses respond very well to treatments as well,” she says.

Melasma is a stain that occurs on the face, especially in women, most often on the cheekbones, forehead and upper lip. “It often occurs after using the contraceptive pill, intense sun exposure and pregnancy. In its initial phase, it can be confused with melanosis by an inexperienced professional. It presents an irregular response to treatments and relapses whenever there is exposure to the sun or heat. Most patients respond well to chemical peeling and Q-switched laser, requiring a few sessions during the year. Recently, a treatment has gained prominence for presenting a higher response rate, even in cases resistant to other treatments: percutaneous collagen induction (IPCA)”, says Juliana.

Most recommended cosmetic procedures

Below, dermatologists talk about the main treatments that are used today to help those who want to lighten their skin, reducing blemishes.

Phototherapy: light-based technique. Sara explains that it is indicated for melasma and other hypertrophies such as solar melasses. The treatment is recommended monthly around 6 to 8 sessions. The value of the session depends on the extension of the area to be treated, but is around 500 reais.

Laser Spectra: this is the Q-switched laser, as explained by Juliana. The best known brands of this laser are Spectra and Acroma. It is an option in the treatment of melanosis, melasma and tattoo. For melasma, weekly sessions between 8 to 10 sessions are necessary. Maintenance is performed according to the needs of each patient. The sessions are painless and the patient only notices a slight redness on the skin. The cost is, on average, 350 to 500 reais per session.

CO2 laser: Juliana explains that it is a laser with an affinity for water and not for the pigment. “It is the best laser option when it comes to rejuvenation, with great collagen stimulation, wrinkle reduction and epidermis renewal. Through the renewal of the epidermis (surface layer of the skin) there is also the partial or total lightening of some melanoses”, she says.

For melasma, still according to Juliana, the CO2 laser is not a good option and has been wrongly indicated for this purpose by inexperienced professionals. “The CO2 laser can stimulate the worsening of melasma, and therefore, once again, the correct diagnosis of spots by the dermatologist before the indication of this treatment is extremely important”, she says.

“When for rejuvenation, the sessions are held every 45 days, with 3 sessions. The treatment is invasive and must be carried out by a doctor as it requires diagnosis and rigorous post-procedure care”, adds Juliana.

The cost of a session varies a lot, and can be between 800 and 5,000 reais, according to Sara.

Peelings: Juliana explains that they are the application of acids and other products in high concentration and must be performed by a dermatologist. These are the oldest treatments for this complaint. For whitening, peels with combinations that can include retinoic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, salicylic acid, jessner peeling, trichloroacetic acid, among others. They are indicated for melanosis or melasma, and are performed from 1 to 5 sessions, usually with monthly intervals. The value can be between 100 to 800 reais.

Microdermabrasion: Sara explains that it is a mechanical peeling, it removes the layers of dead cells. It is only suitable for the most superficial stains. It can be held weekly or fortnightly. It may or may not be associated with chemical peeling. The value is around 200 reais per session.

IPCA: percutaneous collagen induction. Juliana explains that it is done with the application of a multi-needle device associated or not with depigmenting products during the session. “The responses have been quite satisfactory even in resistant melasma. This procedure should be done by a dermatologist because the application of inappropriate devices or aggressively can worsen the condition. Adequate training is required to perform the technique safely,” she highlights.

Dermatological treatments (with a prescription)

Below, dermatologists talk about the most commonly used drugs/products in order to lighten the skin.

Kojic Acid: it is effective in lightening/reducing skin blemishes, however, not in isolation, as Juliana highlights. “Kojic acid is contained in a wide variety of bleaching creams and is a good option, however, as it is a less powerful bleaching agent, it is more commonly used in association with other bleaching agents and acids such as retinoic or glycolic”, he says.

Sara adds that kojic acid can be used in the form of medical peels or night creams. “It’s a rice-derived depigmentant that inhibits tyrosinase,” she says.

Retinoic Acid: Juliana explains that this is the main acid in lightening blemishes. “It does a very efficient cellular renewal of the epidermis. It can be used at home with a prescription or in high concentrations in chemical peels applied in the office by the dermatologist. Not all patients tolerate its use, especially those with sensitive or reddened skin,” she says.

Hydroquinone: Juliana highlights that this is the main whitening active on the market. It is quite efficient for most patients. “It should only be used with medical advice and at intervals, as its prolonged use can cause an adverse effect known as ochronosis or guttate leukoderma, in which dark and/or light spots occur induced by the prolonged use of this substance”, he warns.

Sara adds that hydroquinone inhibits tyrosinase and is derived from phenol. Used in concentrations between 4 to 5%.

It is worth mentioning that they are sold with a prescription and should only be used if there is a medical indication.

Cosmetic treatments (without a prescription)

Below you can see which are the most recommended cosmetics by bloggers to help lighten the skin/reduce blemishes:

1. Dual Clear Max Ada Tina: promises to lighten skin blemishes, in addition to leaving the skin more hydrated and looking better. This is one of blogger Vivian Fernandes’ favorite products.

2. Bio IDB Whitening and Anti-wrinkle Ada Tina: promises to reduce aging and rejuvenate the skin. Clinical test results showed 70% skin lightening, 65% color uniformity, and 70% improvement in the overall appearance of the skin. Cilene Alba was one of the bloggers who tested and approved the product.

3. Kiaritá TheraSkin: cream gel that helps in skin whitening, and has Arbutin, Nicotinamide, Retinaldehyde and Bisabolol in its formulation. Edu Soares tested and approved the product.

4. Pigmentclar Serum La Roche-Posay: promises a visibly more uniform tone and prolonged result. Vivian Fernandes, Edu Soares, among others, tested and approved the product.

5. SVR Clairial C10: promises to reduce blemishes and even out skin tone, blocking three phases of melanin production. According to the manufacturer, the results are visible from four weeks. Vanidade Derme and Feminices and the like were some of the blogs that evaluated the product.

6. Profuse Clair Aché: helps in lightening, reduces imperfections and evens out skin tone. It is indicated for people who have hyperpigmentation disorders, darkened marks and skin imperfections. Estela Kunzler was one of the bloggers who approved the product.

Homemade and natural treatments: do they really work?

Some say that some homemade recipes can help with skin whitening/spot reduction. Below you can see some examples. However, as dermatologist Sara points out, there is no scientific support for any of these homemade recipes.

1. Water + apple cider vinegar + chopped parsley leaves: it is recommended to use this “homemade lotion” every day in the morning and also at night, before going to bed.

Dermatologist Juliana highlights that she is unaware of this recipe and cannot imagine a positive effect on the skin of these elements.

2. Pumpkin puree + water + honey: apply this paste on the spots and let it act for 15 minutes.

3. Avocado + olive oil: mix a spoon (soup) of mashed avocado with a spoon (dessert) of olive oil. Apply the mixture to the face, massage and rinse.

It is worth remembering that none of these homemade recipes have scientific backing. In addition, it is worth knowing that it is very dangerous to “play” with whitening and anti-stain products. Therefore, it is best to consult a…