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Vitamin C: the new and more efficient version of the active –

A vitamin C has always represented a challenge for the chemical industry. This is because its molecules degrade very easily. “In contact with air, water, light or heat, the vitamin undergoes a process called oxidation and loses its properties”, explains dermatologist Angélica Pimenta, from São Paulo. “And, worse, when oxidized, it can assume the opposite function and accelerate the aging process even more, instead of combating it”, says the doctor. Therefore, it is not new that cosmetic companies invest in research to discover the best ways to stabilize and make vitamin C available in their cosmetics.

new versions

A study carried out at Duke University, in the United States, revealed that one of the main conditions for the maximum use of the vitamin is that it is in a vehicle with an acidic pH (up to 3.5), such as serum. That’s why it’s so common to see antiages based on vitamin C in this type of texture. Another discovery of this same study is that the maximum concentration of the vitamin in the product should be 20%. Above that, the effects aren’t as efficient, although scientists haven’t been able to pinpoint why.

Finally, there is also the concern about packaging. Thus, that hermetically closed bottle, which does not allow the passage of air, light and heat, is not only good for looking good on the pharmacy shelf. Usually in tube packaging with a dosing spout and those of the pump and airless type (which do not allow air to enter) are essential to prolong the useful life of your product.

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Four Reasons to Use Vitamin C

It is one of the most powerful antioxidants
It combats the action of free radicals, responsible for cellular aging and causing a series of damages, including inflammation.

Stimulates collagen production
In addition to helping repair existing collagen, it also stimulates the production of new sustaining fibers, which will make the skin firmer and with fewer lines of expression and wrinkles.

Protects from the effects of the sun
Vitamin decreases the impact of solar radiation on the skin. Its function, however, is different from that of a sunscreen: while the filter forms a barrier on the skin, the vitamin has an indirect effect, restoring the integrity of cellular DNA, which may have been damaged by the sun. “The vitamin C-based product should be used in the morning before using sunscreen”, says dermatologist Marcelo Bellini, from São Paulo.

It has whitening effect
This is because it regulates and reduces the excessive production of melanin, albeit more timidly than other depigmenting agents. Overall, it slightly evens out the skin tone, leaving it luminous.

Vitaminized

These cosmetics are part of the new generation of vitamin C. They all contain the pure form of the active and the technology capable of stabilizing it.

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1. Melora C Max Foam, meloraBRL 200*
With 5% vitamin C, the cream, with a foam texture, is light and helps prevent the first signs of aging.

2. Derma Complex Vitamin C, AdcosR4 149*
It brings a concentration of 10% of vitamin C associated with the also antioxidant ferulic acid, which enhances the action of the vitamin.

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3. C-Supérieur, RoCR4 135*
There are two products, which must be mixed before being applied to the skin: a concentrated serum with 16% pure vitamin C and a cream-gel with vitamin E, which facilitates the penetration of the main active ingredient.

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4. Activate C , La Roche-PosayBRL 178.90*
Vitamin E and Carbocysteine ​​help extend the life of Vitamin C in this product, which comes in a light texture, ideal for oily skin. The concentration is 10%.

5. EC Ferulic, SkinceuticalsBRL 302.90*
The serum combines 15% vitamin C with ferulic acid and vitamin E, both with antioxidant action.

6. Ivy C, MantecorpBRL 124*
The 4% vitamin C is encapsulated in nanoparticles and combined with other anti-aging actives: retinol and hyaluronic acid.

7. Improve C20, DermageBRL 145*
With 20% vitamin C, it is a gel-emulsion with a dry touch, which can be used for any type of skin.

*Prices researched in June/2014

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