Skin spots: the new treatments to rid the face of marks –

Although there are no studies to prove it, dermatologists know, empirically, that their offices will fill up after the summer. It is from now on that the demand for treatments tends to increase, and the main reason is only one: spots on the skin. “There is a worsening of pre-existing spots, the appearance of new spots and also the awareness that the time of sun exposure is not suitable for treating the problem. Therefore, the search for solutions doubles at this time of year”, says dermatologist Flavia Addor, board member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology.

Each stain demands a different action. The most difficult to treat is undoubtedly the melasma. It is the famous “pregnancy stain”, brownish and symmetrical, common on the cheeks, sides of the face, upper lip and forehead. “It has a genetic origin and is caused by cells that produce excessive melanin when stimulated”, says dermatologist Erica Monteiro, from Unifesp, in São Paulo. And it’s good to know that the sun’s rays are not the only culprits for stimulating these cells. “There is evidence that infrared radiation, which produces heat, could also increase melanin synthesis in predisposed people. There are no clinical studies proving this hypothesis, but, in practice, patients report noticing this worsening”, says Flavia Addor.

Another type of sunspot caused by the sun is solar melanosis, also known as age spots. It usually appears around the fourth decade of life, in exposed areas such as the face, shoulders, arms and hands. The good news is that there are treatments for all these types of marks. It is good to know, however, that the care for them not to return (or, better yet, not to appear) is for life. Next, learn about the best treatments, products and care capable of keeping stains away.

at the dermatologist

The ideal treatment varies according to the stain. Some doctors do not recommend lasers of any kind for melasma due to the risk of rebound (when the melanin cell is stimulated and, to defend itself, ends up producing more melanin). Solar melanoses admit the use of lasers and intense pulsed light, as well as topical treatments and peelings.

hydroquinone

The well-known substance for topical use is still considered the gold standard in the treatment of stains, especially melasma. However, because it presents some risks, such as leaving a definitive white mark on the site and even the possibility of intoxicating the cells, its use must be controlled and done under the supervision of a dermatologist. “There was a time when hydroquinone was used in very high concentrations, up to 10%”, says dermatologist Carla Albuquerque, member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology, in São Paulo. Today, according to the doctor, it is known that, used consciously, it is capable of excellent results. The maximum concentration should be 4% and the treatment period should be six months. Then you have to take a break of at least three months. Many dermatologists resort to the “triple combination”. In the form of a medicine, Tri-Luma, manufactured by Galderma, is a mix of three ingredients: hydroquinone, tretinoin and fluocinolone acetonide. While hydroquinone inhibits the formation of melanin, tretinoin improves cell renewal, helping the former to penetrate better. Finally, fluocinolone acetonide is a corticosteroid that reduces skin irritation and has anti-inflammatory action. Some of the more common side effects include redness, burning, irritation and itching.

Tranexamic acid infiltration

A recent study, carried out in South Korea, showed that injections of this acid in the area of ​​the stain are capable of reducing pigmentation. “The exact mechanism of action is not yet known, but, in practice, it has been observed that it works”, says Carla Albuquerque. The liquid is injected, with a thin needle, at several points on the stain, superficially, and the process requires anesthesia. “The method is efficient for melasma if the pigment is already more infiltrated into the skin. Indicated for those who have tried everything against stains, but nothing worked”, says the dermatologist. In the first few hours after the injections, the site is usually a little swollen. Ten sessions are required, one per week, at R$450* each, on average.

Retinoic Acid Peel

The acid has a proven action in reducing spots, especially melasma, and is one of the favorites of dermatologists for its safety and effectiveness. It is applied to the face and left on the skin for six to 12 hours. Its dark brown color resembles a foundation. Some doctors choose to do a peeling with another acid, salicylic acid, first. Left on the area for between five and ten minutes, it removes the surface layer of the skin and thus helps the retinoic acid to penetrate better. The peeling treatment requires four or five sessions, with fortnightly intervals, at an average price of R$ 400* per session (or between R$ 500 and R$ 600, in the case of the peeling combo).

Acroma-QS

It is a fractional, non-ablative Q-Switched laser (which does not remove the surface layer of the skin), which works on any type of blemish and can even be used to treat melasma. “It emits very fast light shots and, in this way, precisely hits the melanocytes, destroying the melanin present in the cell without damaging the surrounding skin”, explains dermatologist Juliana Jordão, from Curitiba, professor of laser therapy and cosmiatry at the Brazilian Congress. of Dermatology. In the case of melasma, however, caution is needed. “To avoid rebound, you should perform sessions with low energies and repeatedly”, says the doctor. About ten sessions are indicated, with weekly intervals. The average price per session is between R$350 and R$500*.

etherea

It is an intense pulsed light device, ideal for freckles and age spots with dark pigments, which reaches the melanocyte and destroys the melanin. But, unlike the laser, the light is scattered over the skin, not focused. “Thus, we know that other pigments and skin depths will also be affected, and this can be beneficial: it is possible to remove brown marks, small red vessels and induce collagen synthesis at the same time”, says dermatologist Elizabeth Dobao, post-graduate graduated in dermatology and cosmiatry and member of the European Academy of Dermatology. Two or three sessions are indicated, on average, with a monthly interval between them and an average cost of R$ 550*.

Habits for Life

1. Sunscreen always!

You’ve probably heard this recommendation countless times. But is it applying? “It should be used daily, with sun, rain or snow, including in the early morning and late afternoon”, says dermatologist Valéria Campos, advisor at the Laser Department of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology. For those who already have spots, the ideal SPF is 50.

2. Get used to constant reapplications.

It is possible to use the same protector as in the city on the beach. The FPS doesn’t necessarily need to change. “What changes is the frequency of application”, says dermatologist Érica Monteiro. On a daily basis, if you are at the office, reapply about twice (besides, of course, the morning application, before leaving home) – once before leaving for lunch and another in the middle of the afternoon. At the beach or pool, watch your skin. If it is uncovered, visible, without the coverage of a protector, it is necessary to reapply. It doesn’t matter if you applied the product ten minutes ago or an hour ago – uncovered skin is synonymous with unprotected skin.

3. Read the list of substances.

A product will only be effective in preventing stains if it is of the mixed type, that is, if it contains physical and chemical filters in its formula. The former form a protective barrier over the skin, while the latter protect it through chemical reactions. Lower SPF creams like 15 and 20 will likely just be chemical and not provide adequate protection. The highest ones are usually mixed. When in doubt, look for the following ingredients in the composition: titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Both act as physical filters.

4. Innovate!

Base-colored and stick-shaped guards are two smart ways to protect yourself. The former provide coverage similar to that of a foundation, but a little less intense. Therefore, they make a physical barrier on the skin, in addition to disguising existing spots. The stick filters are super practical for those who do sports, as they are dry and do not drip.

5. Consider using an antioxidant to supplement the protection.

Ultraviolet radiation, which causes sunburn, also stimulates the production of free radicals. These, in turn, stimulate the production of melanocytes. Therefore, by combating free radicals, stain prevention is also indirectly prevented. For this, it is necessary to attack with antioxidants, substances that prevent the formation of free radicals. Among them are vitamins C and E and green tea. You can use a serum with these substances in the morning (always finishing with the protector) or use a protector that already comes with antioxidants.

6. Hat, yes!

Don’t give them up – or hats – when you’re at the beach. The accessory must have wide brims and no holes. If it is made of fabric, the weave must be well closed and, preferably, a synthetic fabric, as the weave of cotton tends to be more open.

7. Choose a trusted dermatologist for effective treatment.

It’s not worth thinking that it’s enough to go to the pharmacy, buy a whitening cream and use it. This type of product works, yes, but its effectiveness depends on a series of factors (such as hormonal influence), which only a doctor will be able to assess. “Even over-the-counter cosmetics require professional guidance. Some can cause irritation and even stimulate melanocytes”, says Érica Monteiro.