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How to go blonde without damaging your hair: the definitive guide –

“Going blonde is a compromise.” You may have heard that phrase around by now. That’s because the care that accompanies the change must be taken – very – seriously, if you want to maintain the health of your wires. But with celebrities like Jade Picon and Pocah lightening their locks, that urge that’s always been in the back of your head has been speaking louder, hasn’t it?

Research points out that more than 1/3 of Brazilian women want to be blonde. You’re one of them?

It’s no secret that Brazilians love blondes — even when the light locks trend isn’t on the rise around the world, it’s still dominant here. A survey commissioned by the hair dye brand Koleston in 2015 showed that 37% of Brazilian women want to be blonde. And this intensifies even more as summer approaches.

In a survey carried out on our Instagram, 31% of followers revealed that they have or have had the desire to lighten their hair.

UNDERSTANDING WHAT A BLONDE DOES

Are they more fun? No, that’s not what we’re talking about. “What determines the color of a hair is the type of pigment. There are two types: eumelanin and pheomelanin. The combination between these two pigments and the amount of each one is what will determine the tone of the hair”, explains the dermatologist. Fernanda Porphiliofrom Clínica Vanité.

We have eumelanin (dark) and pheomelanin (light) pigments in the hair, the amount of each one differs and that’s what makes each hair tone unique

Eumelanin is a larger, darker pigment that ranges from the deepest red to black. Pheomelanin, on the other hand, is a smaller and lighter pigment, ranging from bright red to yellow. We usually have both types, but in different amounts.

“To discolor, you need to open the hair cuticle and remove these pigments. This is done with a solution in hydrogen peroxide (the bleach) and, in this process, the pigment is not the only thing removed but also proteins, which make up the strands. Also, hair is naturally hydrophobic, i.e. it has a layer that repels water. When we damage the wires, opening the cuticles and removing parts of it, it becomes hydrophilic, attracting water. This makes the hair more frizzy and prone to breakage”, teaches Fernanda.

The level of lightening depends on how long we leave the hair in the solution. The darkest ones need more time to discolor than the light ones and redheads are the most difficult to discolor, due to the reddish pigment. The longer, the greater the damage.

“In summary, discoloration greatly affects the health of the hair”, says the dermatologist. But that doesn’t mean it’s prohibited (only in some cases, which we count below). However, did you realize how aggressive a process is? Therefore, maximum care is required before, during and after bleaching.

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We tell you how:

PRE-BLONDE

First of all, you need to know: if you already have chemicals in your hair (such as some straightening), it is very difficult to maintain its integrity by adding another chemical procedure (which is the case with bleaching). But everything will depend on each case. “The hair needs to be studied, since the chemical compatibility depends a lot on the previous procedures that were carried out”, warns Luigi Moretto, hair stylist from São Paulo.

Without the right care, your hair can go down the drain – literally / (Aleksandr Zubkov/Getty Images)

That is, if you don’t give up neither the blonde nor the straight hair, you need to take care and understand how each of these chemicals works on the hair in order to make the decision with confidence. But why can hair with progressive (or other chemicals) suffer more from bleaching?

Hair with progressive or other chemicals will suffer much more and are more likely to break when bleached.

Capillary chemistry changes the hair’s DNA, carrying out a process similar to what Fernanda described, opening the cuticles and weakening the protein bonds that form them. When you already have these bonds weakened by a previous chemistry, adding another one can make them break a lot, causing the chemical breakage of the wires.

So someone who has progressive can’t lighten? It’s not like that. But it is necessary to go through a period of strengthening the fibers before going blonde. “It’s important to make masks frequently using products that rebuild the hair fiber based on keratin, protein and amino acids, in addition to, of course, close monitoring by a professional who understands the strands that have been subjected to chemicals,” says Luigi.

Strengthening masks and scalp serums will be your best friends at this stage.

In addition, bet on products that strengthen the strands from the bulbs, with scalp serums such as Sérum Resistance, by Kérastase. Start applying it to the roots of your strands well in advance, when the idea of ​​going blonde is still just that: an idea. This is because these products act by strengthening the new hairs that will grow, leaving them more apt to receive chemicals in general. But even hair that has already grown out benefits from applying these products to the scalp. The thread itself may not get stronger, but its root does, preventing falls.

Even on virgin hair, it is advisable to follow these steps. Better safe than sorry, right?

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THE CLEANING PROCESS

Have you done all the pre-procedure indications? Now it’s time to clear up. But be careful! There are things you can do during bleaching to minimize any damage.

Be careful at this stage / (dimid_86/Getty Images)

1. Understand it’s an investment

The whole process, to be as healthy as possible, will require investment of time, effort, research and also money. First, investing in a good hairstylist is crucial.

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Take the time to sit down with more than one before you start to discuss what you want done and what’s best for your hair before deciding on a professional. Also, investing in really good products can make a difference. Especially the bleach, it must be of very good quality — check which one the hairdresser uses and research about it. The same goes for products used in aftercare.

2. Treatments during the process

pH Plex has the highest PH on the market, being more powerful to protect the wires during bleaching. Click here to buy / (pH Plex/Disclosure)

The treatments used in the bleach can also seriously help reduce damage. Some practitioners add treatments to hydrogen peroxide to help protect and repair protein bonds.

When you lighten your hair, the bleach breaks the hair’s protein bonds, as we’ve already insisted. But you must have heard of Plexa product that is added to the mix to protect your hair’s natural proteins and make the lightening process safer and less harmful.

As? It helps to strengthen the protein bonds and therefore protects them and prevents them from breaking down in pigment removal.

3. Don’t do it quickly

The truth is, a big part of going blonde without really damaging your hair is being patient and not doing it all at once. It’s important to create a plan with your stylist to start the process gradually and not go straight from dark to platinum, for example. The lightening process is best done a little at a time, with more than one session and treatments in between (with strengthening masks) to help fight damage.

Yes, it will take longer and you may have some weird phases between the color transition (from black to brown to caramel to dark blonde to light blonde…) But this process, in addition to helping you get used to the change , will protect your fibers.

AFTER CARE

Was the result beautiful and healthy? Great, but know that care is still needed and will be constant. This is because, no matter how much you have followed all the steps to lighten it, your hair has weakened structures and this cannot be reversed, but you can make constant repairs, in order to make sure that those damages do not become dangerous.

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Care does not end with the first visit to the hairdresser / (Dmitriy Pridannikov/EyeEm/Getty Images)

1. Shampoo, conditioner and masks

The hair will be delicate and will need you to use good products that will nourish and protect it even more. Avoid the very abrasive ones (for deep cleaning) and invest in products that are really good quality, very moisturizing and that include natural oils. It is also advisable to talk to your hairdresser so that he can give you a hair schedule, in which you will commit to making nourishing, strengthening and moisturizing hair masks, each one at the frequency your hair asks for — the professional will know how to analyze and tell you the ideal frequency of each.

2. Shaders

Star of Oswald: tones positioned on opposite sides neutralize each other / (Playback/Playback)

They are products with pigments that help maintain color. That’s because, with time and aggressors like sun and pollution, the blonde tone oxidizes, leaving the color yellowish or orange. Tinters use the opposite colors of the unwanted pigment to neutralize these tones.

Check with your hairdresser

Although the violet toner is the best known, it is not the only one on the market and the right choice will depend on your blonde’s undertone. The violet pigment neutralizes the yellow and is ideal for ash blondes, but if you are a blonde with a golden undertone, for example, it is better to opt for blue shades, which will only remove the orange from the strands. Talk to your hairdresser so he can see what’s best for you.

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3. Protect it from heat

If you use heat tools on your hair regularly (such as blow dryers and flat irons), you must be extremely careful. Be sure to use a heat protectant to prevent further damage. Also try to use a gentle setting with them — with temperatures of no more than 170 degrees and low pressure (in the dryer). And of course, any other tool you use, like your hairbrush, should have soft bristles that are less likely to cause breakage.

4. Touch ups

When it comes to touching up your hair after dyeing it to maintain color, balance is key. Don’t do touchups too regularly, but don’t wait too long for them either.

If you wait too long between touch-ups, you risk getting a ‘band’ of slightly different shades of blonde around your head, which will require a full bleach job to correct.

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