What you need to know to have straight hair –

Fashion really tries to bring curly hair to the catwalks and TV. But it is difficult for women to resist the attraction that straight, disciplined strands with controlled volume exert. For the Brazilian woman, smooth hair is considered a status symbol, sensuality and a synonym for well-groomed. Professionals who work directly in this universe see this reality on a daily basis. “The more rebellious the hair is, the more the woman dreams of straight strands, as she believes it will look more elegant. In fact, straight hair better displays the color, the cut, the highlights”, says Wanderley Nunes, from Studio W, in São Paulo. Cosmetics companies also know the importance of this dream, which appears in any age group. According to data from L’Oréal Professionnel, among the owners of wavy or curly hair, the preference for straight hair corresponds to around 45%. The reason? Gain one more weapon of self-confidence and seduction.

The formaldehyde controversy

Progressive brush, Japanese, chocolate, straightening, relaxation… There are many names for methods that have a common goal: straightening the hair. Some act through relaxing and smoothing substances, which alter the capillary structure, such as ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide. Others use formaldehyde (formaldehyde or similar), whose action is to form a film that “encaps” the thread, giving it a smoother and more settled appearance. “The result looks great, the hair looks healthy, shiny. However, formaldehyde destroys the thread silently”, warns Sheila Bellotti, a specialist in capillary aesthetics in Rio de Janeiro.

Sheila Bellotti speaks based on data from the National Health Surveillance Agency – Anvisa). According to the agency, formaldehyde, when used in amounts greater than those provided for by law (0.2%), as well as glutaraldehyde (or glutaral), can cause numerous problems resulting from direct contact with the skin or with the steam produced. during the process. It is good to clarify that many products are formulated with this substance and considered fit for use. The problem lies in manually adding formaldehyde to an industrialized product, with the aim of obtaining a more intense result. This, in general, is done by the hairdresser himself. “Unfortunately, some professionals sell the dream of the perfect look and use forbidden devices to fulfill the promise”, declares the specialist. However, there is a question that remains: if formaldehyde is so harmful, why does it give such a nice result? “There is no denying that the effect is good. It works like a laminate closing the hair cuticles, producing a smooth and shiny effect. While the effect lasts, it will make the hair beautiful, but it will prevent the treatment actives from passing through. There is wear and loss of capillary mass, which leaves the hair thin and thin. For this reason, those who had a huge head of hair may now be clamoring for a few more strands, forever killed by the use of formaldehyde”, warns the specialist.

only chemistry straightens

There are several procedures with the purpose of smoothing and disciplining the threads, known for some time and already mentioned in this article, such as ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine and sodium hydroxide. “For a transformation to occur, it is necessary to change the distribution of keratin in the cortex of the hair shaft and that only a potentially aggressive chemical product can do”, explains Valcinir Bedin, dermatologist and director of the Integrated Center for the Prevention of Aging (CIPE), in São Paulo. Paul. Assets such as proteins, keratin, vitamins and fruits do not have the power to change the capillary shape. They are added to formulations to promote treatment, comfort in application, perfume. “Keratin does not straighten hair. It hydrates for up to five washes, but doesn’t change the structure”, says Juha Antero, from MG Hair Design, in São Paulo.

perfect date

Despite the fact that straight hair is still on the rise, fashion today calls for balance and a certain volume. The stoned look is left behind. “Currently, women prefer straight hair with shaped ends, without that overly stretched effect”, says Paulo Amianto, from Tamba Salão Boutique, in São Paulo. Therefore, many seek to soften or straighten only parts of the hair. “Not all curly hairs present themselves in the same way. For some women, what bothers is the back, for others, the front. Thus, we can solve the problem only in these regions, applying the product on the spot”, says Juha Antero. At Salão Marcos Proença, in São Paulo, this is also a common procedure. “We applied the Diamond Brush only to the sides of the front, the bangs and the top of the head. Thus, the rest of the hair maintains its natural movement”, says Umberto Luiz, hairstylist at the salon. So ready to transform? Get to know better the paths that can lead you to realize your dream.

softening or relaxation

Allows you to remove volume and open curls. “The process dissolves the frizz, leaving it very natural. It uses products based on ammonia or guanidine, which are milder, or, depending on the type of hair, sodium hydroxide”, explains Toninho, from Planet Hair, in São Paulo.

straightening

Made from sodium hydroxide, it alters the original structure of the yarn. It can be done on virgin or toned hair, but it is not recommended for hair with highlights and dye. The result is smooth, bouncy hair.

progressive brush

It doesn’t change the structure of the hair, it just “plastifies” the thick strands. The result is natural straight hair with movement. It is also known as smart, Moroccan, chocolate and strawberry brush. There are progressive brushes that use formaldehyde within Anvisa’s specifications (0.2%) and others based on methylparaben and propylparaben (according to Anvisa, these two substances follow the same regulation as formaldehyde).

definitive brush

It is indicated for those who have wavy hair and want to discipline rebellious strands. Smoothes the hair leaving it looking stoned. It generally uses guanidine or sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate.

temporary brush

It can be done by anyone who has gone through other types of straightening, relaxation, dyeing and discoloration. Durability is short: from 30 to 60 days, depending on the structure of the hair. Moisturizing actives, keratin, amino acids and butters are used.