Azelaic acid is new to treat acne, wrinkles and blemishes

Winter is considered the best time of year for skin treatments as most of them require sun avoidance. And every year there are new things. One of them is azelaic acid, which has a whitening action and acts on melanocytes (cells in which melanin pigment is produced), interrupting this activity and its development.

Dermatologist Tatiana Steiner, director of the Dskin clinic, which specializes in facial and body treatments, explains how this acid works: “It is an active principle that does not act on the normal pigment of the skin, but only when there is excess pigmentation, inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase. , which acts and stimulates the process of melanin production.

In addition, it has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and comedolytic action, that is, it is capable of destroying the blackheads formed on the skin. Generally, the application of the product starts from the age of 14, but it can be started at 12, if there is a medical recommendation.

When to use azelaic acid

• It is indicated for acne vulgaris, mild and moderate; post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; and is a therapeutic option for melasma in pregnancy. It can be used on the face and body.
• It is also highly recommended to lighten the darkening of the skin caused by folliculitis and ingrown hair on the body (legs and groin).
• It can also be used as a peeling, making a light exfoliation and having a drying effect, but this use is not so common.

How the product works on the skin

For each purpose, the product acts differently:

Acne: has antibacterial action, inhibiting the bacteria that colonizes inflamed acne lesions; it is comedolytic, helping to reduce comedones (blackheads); It has an anti-inflammatory and drying effect.

Melasma: It is an option for the whitening of melasma and the first option for the treatment of the problem in pregnancy.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: acts on pigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is fundamental in the process of pigmentation and formation of the pigment melanin.

Photoaging: it has a small exfoliating action and, therefore, is not the first option for rejuvenation. It is used for this purpose when there are also blemishes on the skin.

The concentration of azelaic acid can vary from 5 to 25% and the product can be in gel or cream, being the option in gel for more oily skins and in cream for dry skin and for the body. It is sold in common pharmacies, but it can also be manipulated. Everything will depend on the dermatologist’s prescription. “It is a product that should only be indicated by specialist doctors, according to each problem presented and also with the characteristics of the skin. Each treatment is individual and each individual responds in different ways”, explains the dermatologist.

During treatment, the ideal is to use sunscreen every day, even if there is not so much light. “The use of protection should become a daily habit for all individuals”, he recommends.

Side effects

Before starting the application, it is possible to test if the patient has any allergic reaction. Just apply a small amount of the product on the inside of the forearm and observe for 48 hours.

Still, as with any product, azelaic acid can cause some problems, such as making your skin irritated, red, and even scaly. In these situations, the dermatologist’s recommendation is to interrupt the treatment and let the skin normalize, in addition to intensifying the use of sunscreen and talking to your doctor so that he can guide the necessary measures.