6 acids that can (and should!) be used during all seasons of the year –

Acids, considered the most effective ingredients in dermocosmetics, act as true wildcards in the treatment of acne, wrinkles, stains and even sagging. But with the changing seasons, the question remains: do we really have to say goodbye to these products at certain times of the year?

“There are acids that can and should be used throughout the year to continue maintaining results. Ferulic, kojic, azelaic, maslinic, ascorbic and hyaluronic acids are some of those that can remain in the skincare routine in any month”, explains dermatologist Priscila Camara de Camargo, from Clínica Camargo.

The specialist recalls that the indication and dosage of the actives must be made by a specialist, as well as the orientation of the mode of use.

“Whether the ingredient is photosensitizing or not, using sunscreen daily is a basic rule, as long as it has more than 30 SPF and is reapplied two to three times a day. In addition, many formulas with acids can have their effects enhanced with other actives, such as peptides, barrier restorers and antioxidants”, he highlights.

But how does each work?

1

FERULIC ACID

“This acid provides hydrogen for neutralizing free radicals, which are related to cell aging. It is a potent antioxidant and, combined with vitamin C (ascorbic acid), prevents aging and treats dark spots. Scientific data have shown that topical application of ferulic acid inhibits the formation of erythema (redness) caused by skin exposure to UV rays.”

two

KOJIC ACID

According to the dermatologist, Kojic acid is considered an important lightener because it is allowed to be used during the year and also during pregnancy, and inhibits the action of tyrosinase – the enzyme responsible for producing pigment –, promoting a decrease in the formation of melanin and melasma, common in pregnant women, in addition to contributing to skin whitening. It is an acid that does not cause irritation if used correctly.

“Since kojic acid is milder and does not cause photosensitivity, I use it even during the day.”

3

AZELAIC ACID

“It is an acid with a whitening and sebum-regulating function, good for treating acne and also rosacea. It can also be used by pregnant women to control melasma, because it has the same function as kojic acid.”

The dermatologist adds that the sebum-regulating effect of this active helps to reduce blackheads, cleans pores, in addition to having antibacterial and antimicrobial action. It’s still anti-inflammatory, drying and whitening stains and acne sequels.

4

MASLINIC ACID

It is a powerful antioxidant and also has a great anti-inflammatory action. The formulas in which the active is nanoencapsulated guarantee high penetration into the skin.

“This acid reduces the redness of irritated skin, especially after sun exposure and other environmental aggressors, such as pollution. The substance acts directly on the hydration and appearance of the skin, leaving it softer and more radiant because it stimulates cell renewal.”

5

ASCORBIC ACID

“The famous Vitamin C, L-Ascorbic Acid, is a powerful antioxidant. It is responsible for curbing the action of free radicals, stimulating the formation of new collagen and protecting the skin from the effects of the sun, as it evens out its tone and improves its texture. It is also important for reducing wrinkles and has immunoprotective and lightening activity.”

The dermatologist ensures that the active promotes all the benefits of pure Vitamin C, being 10 times better absorbed than it.

6

HYALURONIC ACID

“With advancing age, hyaluronic acid decreases, also reducing skin hydration and elasticity. So, when there is a lack of hyaluronic acid, there is dehydration of the skin, in addition to a tendency towards sagging, wrinkles, furrows and loss of luminosity. The active has several molecular weights and must be used in different compositions to act on different areas of the skin, mainly as a powerful moisturizer in anti-aging formulas.”

The doctor points out that before using any acid on the face, it is important to visit a dermatologist and clarify all doubts, especially so that the professional can indicate an effective formula for your case.