Peels that fight acne, blackheads and stains –

It even seems like magic: the dermatologist rubs an acid on our face and, in 48 hours, the skin is already peeling. Five more days and there’s one luminous face and free from blackheads and blemishes. “O peeling it helps speed up the cell renewal process,” says dermatologist Aline Cruz Dias, from São Paulo. Naturally, this exchange would take a long 21 days to happen!

If you don’t have the patience to wait that long, stay tuned: most of the time, doctors opt for superficial peeling, which peels off the epidermis (external layer of the skin) with the use of acids or exfoliation devices. “In the latter case, we usually use a diamond tipwhich is more delicate, or a crystal one, which allows you to intensify the pressure”, explains dermatologist Silvia Zimbres from São Paulo.

Depending on the objective, peeling can still be associated with other aesthetic procedures. These combos, indicated by the doctor, help to optimize the result.

Is the peeling suitable for my skin?

There are no restrictions for fair skin. already the black and brunette need to be careful with medium peeling. “Since they have a higher concentration of melanin, more aggressive treatments can cause spots due to inflammation”, says dermatologist Giana Campoi. Sore areas (such as herpes) should stay away from any peeling.

If your skin has acne

Try the filter: retinoic and salicylic acid peeling + skin cleansing
You cloves dark spots will only disappear with manual extraction, there is no way. “But, to eliminate closed comedones, which are those lumps under the skin, it is worth including a peeling in the treatment”, recommends Adriana Benito, a specialist doctor at Clinica Senses, in São Paulo.

It can be with retinoic or salicylic acid. In the case of pimples, combine the two. “Salicylic acid combats hyperkeratinization, regulates skin oiliness and has antimicrobial action”, says dermatologist Flávia Novis, from Rio de Janeiro. Retinoic acid, in turn, is derived from vitamin A and is usually the most used (in a concentration of 1 to 5%) to exfoliate the skin and stimulate collagen production.

If your skin has blemishes

Try the filters: retinoic acid + whitening agents / superficial peeling + ATA
Are you one of those people who love to lie out in the sun and only realize the mistake they’ve made when the first spots appear? Okay, you can’t go back in time, but the use of retinoic acid peeling and whitening agents can help you revert the past. And the same goes for melasma. “This combination inhibits all pathways of melanin formation and peels off the already pigmented skin”, explains Vivien Yamada, from the VY Dermatologia e Estética clinic, in São Paulo.

Another option is to associate a superficial peeling (such as alpha-hydroxy acids, which include glycolic and lactic acid) with tricloacetic acid (ATA), which reaches the dermis (intermediate layer of the skin). “We only place the ATA on top of the stains”, says Silvia. She warns that, in the case of melasma, deeper peelings are contraindicated. “For it to work, we need to do a gradual and progressive treatment because the cause can be hormonal or genetic, which involves memory cells.”

If your skin has acne scars and wrinkles

Peeling can be used to disguise scars from acne and wrinkles, but it is not the best treatment for the problem. For these cases, dermatologists indicate lasers that stimulate the production of collagen, such as CO2. “Those who don’t want to pay for these more expensive treatments or have dark skin can opt for the medium peeling with Jessner’s acid and tricloacetic acid (ATA)”, says Silvia, who explains that the first has the function of paving the way for action of the second. Warning: recovery takes 15 days and, in the first week, the peeling becomes thick and brownish.

The unanimity among doctors is that deep peeling – even more aggressive – is no longer worth it. “The treatment requires cardiac monitoring, because of the phenol used, the operating room and sedation”, explains Silvia. The cost is not worth it either, since everything costs around R$3,000 (superficial peeling varies between R$300 and R$500).

Do your part

Lack of care can jeopardize the desired result (think stains and allergies!). To prevent this from happening, follow these rules:

Before
1. always use sunscreen. We know you never forget him, right?

two. Bet on whitening products. They inactivate the production cells of melanin.

After
1. reapply the sunblock three times a day. The removal of the outer layer of the skin leaves the melanin-producing cells more exposed, which favors stains.

two. take a break in make up. You can even use it right after the superficial peeling (in the case of medium peeling, the deadline is two days). But the best way to disguise the flaking is hydrate. And don’t even think about pulling the ends.

3. abuse of thermal waters. “They have calming effect and inhibit inflammation”, recommends dermatologist Flávia Novis, from Rio de Janeiro.

Originally published in August 2015.