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Some peelings are indicated for those who suffer (or have suffered) from pimples – with drying agents, they reduce the inflammatory process and fight the scars left by acne. Others bring whitening actives to soften sun spots. There are still those that stimulate collagen and thus delay fine lines and sagging. There’s also one that will lift your expression so you can arrive refreshed at an important party.
This is only possible thanks to the variety of options, which differ by the substance used or the depth of action of the procedure. Better: unlike what happened a few years ago, peeling causes less discomfort during and after the session. In some cases, such as diamond, crystal or wine, it can be done even at lunchtime, as it does not leave the face too red, flaky or with little scabs. Next, find the ideal peel for you.
fine lines
Between the ages of 25 and 30, they begin to appear, especially around the eyes and forehead. Treating them right away is the best way to prevent them from rapidly evolving into deeper wrinkles.
What to do: peeling of retinoic, kojic and lactic acids, which are applied all over the face with a gauze and removed at home, with water, after a period of four to eight hours. The three actives basically have the same function – to stimulate collagen production to “fill in” wrinkles from the inside out. “The substances are combined to enhance each other’s action and ensure better results in the first session”, explains dermatologist Marcelle de Figueiredo, from Spaço Ella, in Rio de Janeiro.
beauty price: during the procedure, the face burns a little and peels off for three days in a row.
Can not do: who are pregnant or use oral isotretinoin (the drug with the trade name Roaccutane) or stopped using it two months ago.
Number of sessions: three, with an interval of 15 to 30 days between them.
Maintenance: the complete treatment must be repeated two to three times a year.
spot and freckle
The first, with the medical name of melasma, affects mainly the upper lip and cheekbones and gains strength with hormonal changes caused by pregnancy, birth control pills, infertility treatments and thyroid changes. All because hormones make the skin pigment more easily under ultraviolet radiation. The sun is also the trigger for increasing the size of freckles or small sunspots, melanoses.
What to do: Trio Peeling, which combines, in the same session, the sequential application of salicylic acid followed by cosmelan, a mix of acids, such as phytic and citric, and retinoic acid. “The first acid refines the outermost layer of the skin to facilitate the action of the second and third, which lighten”, says dermatologist Roberta Bibas, from Rio de Janeiro. Already in the first week after treatment it is possible to notice the benefit.
beauty price: the peeling must remain on the face for 12 hours and then be removed at home with water. Two days after the treatment, the skin begins to flake off quite intensively and continues to do so for four days. To ease it, the doctor recommends a soothing cream or manipulated regenerating gel.
Can not do: who is pregnant or breastfeeding.
Number of sessions: between four and six, one every 15 days.
Maintenance: it is recommended to repeat the procedure once or twice a year.
acne scar
In addition to being painful and unsightly, acne can also leave marks on the face. But know that you can prevent the formation of this type of scar (when the sign is still reddish) or treat it (for those who suffered from the problem in adolescence) with peeling. People with lesions on their face, such as inflamed, pus-filled pimples, should take oral antibiotics to dry the area before treatment.
What to do: Blue Peel, a peeling based on trichloroacetic acid, better known as ATA. Mixed with a special blue powder, which gets darker according to the depth the doctor wants to reach, the substance is applied directly on each scar. “With this, we can treat marks of different depressions, guaranteeing a uniform result”, says dermatologist Mônica de Almeida, from the Splendore Clínica Estética e Laser, in Campinas (SP). ATA stimulates the formation of new, smoother and more homogeneous skin.
beauty price: during application, the skin burns a lot. Then, at home, you need to use creams with a calming action for five days. A thick, brown crust then forms in each treated depression. Therefore, doctors suggest taking leave from work for a week. “You can’t do the procedure 15 days before a party, as neither foundation nor powder disguises it”, warns Mônica.
Can not do: who is pregnant, has active acne (with inflammation and apparent pustules) or active cold sores.
Number of sessions: varies from four to six, with an interval of 21 days between them.
Maintenance: it is not necessary to repeat the treatment – unless other acne scars appear.
carnations
Among the regions most affected by blackheads are the nose, forehead and chin, the area known as the T-zone. In it, skin oiliness is usually higher compared to the rest of the face. Despite this, peeling can be done on the entire face.
What to do: diamond or crystal peeling, which uses a kind of sandpaper made from these materials to exfoliate the skin more deeply than cosmetics. With this, dead cells and more superficial carnations are removed. “Although it doesn’t remove all the black dots, it’s a good choice for anyone who feels a lot of pain with the manual cleaning done by the beautician”, warns Ana Elisa Brito, dermatologist from São Paulo. In addition, the skin is more luminous and smooth.
beauty price: the session does not hurt, but it leaves the face reddened for half an hour.
Can not do: doctors do not point out contraindications. “As the power of the sandpaper is modulated, the peeling can be done even on those with acne without hurting the face”, guarantees the doctor.
Number of sessions: one.
Maintenance: the indication is to have a session every two or three months.
Flaccidity
From the age of 30, there is a natural drop in the speed at which cells renew themselves. Result: the production of fibers that give elasticity and support to the skin also decreases, giving rise to the first signs of sagging, usually in the lower eyelids and in the jaw area. These effects are more intense due to genetics and bad habits, such as smoking and overexposure to the sun.
What to do: light phenol peeling, a subtle version of the acid, which gained controversial attention for leaving the face raw. Light is not as aggressive, but it does cause discomfort. “It associates phenic, retinoic and pyruvic acids, which stimulate collagen production and retract existing fibers, promoting a lifting effect”, says dermatologist Fabiana Simões Pietro, coordinator of the Deep Peeling Ambulatory of the Society of Aesthetic Medicine of São Paulo . “Followed by the acid, I apply a cream on my face to speed up healing”, adds dermatologist and cosmiatrician Mercedes Granja, from São Paulo.
beauty price: the doctor uses anesthetic ointment to soften the burning of the peeling. Two days later, a thin crust appears on the skin. After it falls, the face is pink for up to 15 days. It is recommended to stay at home for five to seven days. “To disguise it, use a cream manipulated with green pigment to ‘break’ the red and, on top, apply makeup”, teaches Fabiana.
Can not do: anyone who is pregnant, nursing or has sensitive skin.
Number of sessions: from two to three, one every 15 or 30 days.
Maintenance: repeat the treatment once a year.
tired look
Stress, sleepless nights, excessive clubbing, alcohol and cigarettes are some of the villains that rob the skin of its vitality and hydration and leave its texture rough. To reverse the condition, there are the Cinderella effect peelings, which give an immediate up to the face – ideal for the day of that special event.
What to do: wine peeling, which is rich in polyphenols from grapes, one of the most powerful actives against the action of free radicals – molecules that cause skin ageing. It is applied like a mask all over the face and removed in a few minutes. “Right after removing the cream, the skin is already more hydrated with a satin touch. The result lasts about eight hours”, says dermatologist Monica Fiszbaum, from São Paulo.
beauty price: the treatment does not cause any side effects (unless you are allergic to any of the components).
Can not do: there are no contraindications.
Number of sessions: in the first session, you already notice the Cinderella effect. But for a deep and long-term treatment, an average of five sessions is recommended.
Maintenance: one session per month is enough.
Lots of care, before and after
With the exception of the wine peeling, which works as a luminosity mask, the other mentioned treatments require attention before and after the procedure. First, know that you will need to resort to acid-based creams or depigmenting substances. Cosmetics (manipulated or not) act as an adjunct to the aesthetic treatment and are essential to guarantee and prolong the result. After the session, care must be redoubled.
The word peeling, which comes from the English verb to peel, means to peel. Soon, the face will be sensitized. This means that he reacts, igniting, to every little thing. Among the worst villains, there is always the sun. “For this reason, winter is the best time to adhere to the treatment”, explains dermatologist Jardis Volpe, from São Paulo.
Even so, sunscreen remains essential. “A lot of people who treat blemishes end up getting an even darker mark because they don’t use sunscreen afterwards”, warns dermatologist Fabiana Simões Pietro. The ideal is to use products that act against UVB and UVA rays (check the label) and with an SPF of at least 60. If it has a base color, even better. The tonality works as a physical filter, reflecting the sun’s rays, and, in addition, it even disguises flaking and redness as a make-up.
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