Myths and Truths About Retinoic Acid

Currently, there is a lot of talk about compounds – discovered in recent years – to reduce wrinkles and, in general, make women’s skin more beautiful. But it is true that few stand out like retinoic acid, considered a powerful weapon in the fight against facial aging.

According to Sara Bragança, a doctor with a postgraduate degree in Dermatology and a member of the Brazilian Society of Aesthetic Medicine, retinoic acid, also known as Vitamin A acid or tretinoin, is one of the actives with the most studies regarding its effectiveness in skin rejuvenation. “With it, the skin is smoother, firmer and with fewer spots and wrinkles”, she highlights.

The doctor explains that retinoic acid is widely used in depigmenting products and treatments, stretch marks, acne and antiaging, which seek to act on cell renewal. “Exactly because it has this renewal action, in addition to stimulating collagen formation, reorganizing elastic fibers damaged by sun exposure and improving the skin’s blood supply”, she says.

Despite all the success, there are still many doubts and even myths around the use of products with retinoic acid. An issue that draws a lot of attention, for example, is the possibility that the treatment makes the skin of the face red and drier – a reason that makes some people give up on it (even because they think this may be an allergic reaction).

But, in addition to this, it is important that other doubts about retinoic acid are clarified. Check below the answers to the most common questions about this asset.

1. Do retinoic acid, retinaldehyde and retinol mean the same thing?

Sara Bragança explains that retinaldehyde and retinol are actually derivatives of retinoic acid. This is exactly why a lot of doubt arises in relation to these different names.

“Retinaldehyde is the direct precursor of retinoic acid, that is, when applied to the skin, it converts into retinoic acid. It is usually more tolerated and does not cause as much irritation”, explains the doctor.

Retinol is also a precursor of retinoic acid, as Sara points out, but first it must be converted into retinaldehyde and only later into retinoic acid by the skin’s enzymes. “It also has excellent tolerability and good clinical efficacy,” she adds.

2. Is red skin after using products with retinoic acid a sign of allergy?

“My dermatologist prescribed me, a while ago, an anti-aging cream based on retinoic acid. I started using it, but soon I noticed that my skin became red and more hangover. I thought, then, of immediately stopping the treatment”, says Marina Carneiro, 38 years old, a salesperson.

Reports like Marina’s reinforce that there is still a lot of doubt about products with retinoic acid: the benefits they offer, the correct way to use them, side effects, contraindications, etc.

It is worth mentioning that skin sensitivity does not always mean allergy to retinoic acid, since it is, in a way, even normal to have dryness, redness and peeling when the person starts using the product – which should cease after some time of treatment. . Most of the time, the orientation is to follow with the use, but, of course, the dermatologist should always be consulted before this decision.

Sara Bragança highlights that there are soothing products that help to soften the reactions of aesthetic treatments. “In addition, irritation can be relieved by applying thermal water and avoiding products that contain alcohol in their composition, such as, for example, tonic lotions”, she says.

3. Can everyone use retinoic acid-based products?

This is a very common question since most people, at a certain stage of life, seek the various benefits that the asset can offer, such as firmer, smoother and blemish-free skin.

Sara Bragança explains that oily skins or those with acne and scars tolerate retinoic acid better. “The more sensitive skins, or those with a tendency to dryness, are better able to tolerate retinaldehyde and retinol”, she says.

The professional highlights that retinoic acid and its derivatives should not be used by children under 12 years of age, by people who are hypersensitive to the components, pregnant or breastfeeding. “Patients with rosacea should also avoid it, as retinoids stimulate the proliferation of spider veins and can worsen the redness,” she adds.

4. During treatment with retinoic acid, can the person sunbathe with the use of sunscreen?

Dermatologist Sara Bragança explains that women who undergo some type of treatment with retinoic acid should completely avoid sun exposure. “It is a photosensitizing substance, as it makes the skin thinner and more sensitive, not tolerating sun exposure”, she says.

5. Should retinoic acid-based products be used daily?

Firstly, it is important to highlight that products containing retinoic acid and its derivatives should be used exclusively at night, “with a very thin layer, avoiding the neck regions and close to the eyes”, as explained by dermatologist Sara.

“In the morning, the product must be removed by cleaning with water and soap and, soon after, it is necessary to apply a sunscreen with a high protection factor (preferably SPF greater than or equal to 50)”, adds the doctor.

Sara also highlights that patients who have never used retinoids, or have sensitive skin, should use the product every other night or even twice a week, in order to achieve good results with less chance of irritation. “On nights when the product is not used, creams with other principles, such as tensors, moisturizers and vitamins, can be applied”, she says.

6. Can those who use retinoic acid-based products no longer shave their upper lip?

The woman who follows a treatment based on retinoic acid will even be able to shave her upper lip again. But, as explained by Sara Bragança, those who usually shave with wax should suspend the use of acids seven days before so as not to injure the skin, which will be very thin.

7. How can I purchase products with retinoic acid?

A dermatologist will prescribe and monitor treatment that includes retinoic acid – which is considered a medication. In the case of retinol and retinaldehyde, the stringency is lower, as they are classified as cosmeceuticals. However, the indication and professional follow-up continue to be superindicated.

So, if you’re interested in getting the benefits that retinoic acid products can offer, talk to your dermatologist about the possibility. The professional will certainly pass on all the information necessary for the treatment to be a success!