7 ways to get rid of skin blemishes without using hydroquinone –

After sunbathing in the end of the year holidays and the Carnival holiday, you found yourself with something you weren’t used to: spots on your face. Until recently, it was common to go to the dermatologist and hear from him the recommendation of constant use of sunscreen combined with treatment with hydroquinone, a powerful substance in skin lightening.

However, not everyone is willing to face this technique. That’s because she usually causes irritation. “And that’s not all: hydroquinone, when used in high concentrations and for a prolonged period of time, can also cause contact dermatitis, exogenous ochronosis, a darkened pigmentation in the area where the treatment is not resolved”, explains Adriano Loyola, dermatologist and advisor to the Department of Cosmiatry of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology (SBD). Worse: the procedure done for long periods can kill melanocytes, cells that produce melanin. “The result is white spots spread across the skin, called confetti leukoderma”, he warns.

In Brazil, hydroquinone is released by Anvisa, with a maximum concentration allowed in dermocosmetics of 2%. In manipulated products, it can reach up to 4%. “It is worth mentioning that some people cannot tolerate the use of the substance even in concentrations of up to 4% due to the sensitizing effect, with burning and redness after use”, warns Tathya Taranto, dermatologist, from Belo Horizonte (MG).

The good news is that there are several less aggressive ways to get rid of blemishes on your face. Check it out:

1. Vitamin C

Called ascorbic acid by dermatologists, vitamin C acts by inhibiting the production of melanin (pigment responsible for brownish spots on the skin), but less effectively than other depigmenting agents, such as hydroquinone. “The ideal is to use it in association with other lighteners, to increase their effectiveness and reduce their action time”, advises Tathya.

Not forgetting that vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, with the action of combating free radicals that damage cells. “Therefore, it decreases the results of natural aging of the skin, in addition to the damage caused by the sun”, points out Luciana de Abreu, dermatologist at the Dr. André Braz, in Rio de Janeiro.

Read more: Moisturizing, anti-aging, acidic: the right way to use your beauty products

2. Peeling

It can be a great solution for improving skin tone if the procedure is used in conjunction with the right products at home. This is because peeling helps to promote cell renewal, with the exchange and peeling of the superficial layers of the skin. “Thus, we have the most superficial removal of skin spots”, says Luciana.

In the case of darker marks, the ideal is to use light peelings, to avoid hyperpigmentation (increase of spots on the dermis). “As an example, we can mention retinoic acid, glycolic, mandelic and Jessner’s solution peelings. With this, the skin becomes more luminous, hydrated and clearer, however, sessions are necessary every 15 days to achieve the desired lightening”, says Tathya.

3. Acids

They are good choices because they contribute to the exfoliation of the skin by eliminating spots of all kinds, from the lightest to the most profound. Kojic acid, for example, acts by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that transforms the amino acid tyrosine into melanin. “It has a light whitening effect and its best results come from use in combination with other agents. It has the advantage of not being photosensitive, little irritating and can be used in the summer”, says the dermatologist.

Another option is azelaic acid – found naturally in wheat, barley, rye and which can also be obtained by oxidizing the oil of the castor bean plant. The substance is mainly used to treat acne, but it is also indicated to lighten skin spots, as it acts on the cells that produce melanin. “At a 20% concentration, azelaic acid proved to be as effective as 2% hydroquinone, in addition to being able to be used during the day”, adds Adriano.

Read more: Know the pros and cons of using products with acid on your face

4. Retinol and retinoids

Derived from vitamin A, they improve the surface of the skin because “they help to disperse the melanin grains, making it easier to remove the dark pigment”, says Claudio Wulkan, dermatologist at the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and Albert Einstein Hospital.

In addition, both stimulate collagen production (the face is firmer), control oiliness and prevent acne. But it’s good to be alert: they have a greater potential for irritation compared to other substances. In addition, they must be used at night, as they are highly sensitive to sunlight.

5. Arbutin

Considered the substance that comes closest to the effects of hydroquinone, but without side effects, arbutin is derived from the leaves of uva-ursi or bearberry. It acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, decreasing the production of melanin, which lightens the skin. “It can be used in a concentration that varies from 2% to 4%, leading to less irritation than hydroquinone”, warns Tathya.

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6. Niacinamide

Also called nicotinamide, it is nothing more than vitamin B3. It helps to whiten the skin, in addition to preventing the darkening of spots. “Not forgetting that niacinamide improves skin hydration and reinforces the structure of the skin’s water and fat barrier. And the best part: it doesn’t cause irritation or unwanted side effects like most depigmenting agents,” says Luciana.

7. Licorice Extract

Coming from the root of the licorice plant, the substance is capable of inhibiting the action of tyrosinase (an enzyme that allows the production of melanin), reducing pigmentation and redness caused by exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) rays.

It also has anti-inflammatory action on the skin. “Usually, it is used in combination with other whitening agents to reduce the chance of spots appearing as a result of inflammation, as well as to reduce the irritation triggered by the use of acids and whitening agents”, concludes Luciana.