Dermocosmetics and their essential functions in skin care

Dermocosmetics are products that are highly recommended by dermatologists and have particularities and technologies that make them stand out. To find out more, we interviewed dermatologist and trichologist Joana D’arc Diniz (CRM: 67786-8 RJ), Scientific Director of the Brazilian Society of Aesthetic Medicine and the Brazilian Hair Society (RJ). Check out!

What are dermocosmetics?

According to Joana, dermocosmetics, which can also be classified as cosmeceuticals, are high-tech pharmacological products that can penetrate the deepest layer of the skin, that is, the dermis.

The dermatologist called attention to the nanotechnology present in these products. “Another factor that deserves attention is nanotechnology in the dermocosmetic area, a strong trend in the treatment of skin nutrition through nanoencapsulated moisturizers. Nanotechnology with the assets present in the composition are encapsulated in lipophilic nanoparticles, which act where the body really needs it. Due to their small size, they transcend the stratum corneum (most superficial layer and protective barrier) and settle in the deeper layers of the skin, ensuring substantial effectiveness in dermal treatment, with a high degree of absorption and hydration. There are already products with nanoparticles of resveratrol, vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, among others that, in addition to providing more prolonged hydration, also act as antioxidants, antiaging and skin lighteners”.

Dermocosmetics X cosmetics

When comparing these two types of products, the difference is remarkable. Joana points out that the main differences between them are in the high technology and in the ability of Dermocosmetics to penetrate the dermis. Therefore, the results are more effective than cosmetics. “This is because it is made with medicinal substances and actives and, thus, prevents, treats and acts in a more comprehensive way and according to the damage and needs in which the state of the skin is. In addition, they need to have scientific proof after tests on their effectiveness based on studies and clinical research. It is also good to point out that several researches and studies that have already been carried out with their components in their formulations have attested to being beneficial and effective”, she adds.

According to the professional, despite not needing a prescription, the best indication is that the product should be recommended by a dermatologist, who will evaluate what is most appropriate for each case and type of problem, considering the vehicle used (serum, cream, lotion) and, mainly, the concentration of actives. Joana spoke a little more about the cosmetics category and its scope. “It is worth adding that cosmetics are not limited to products intended exclusively for the skin, as they cover other categories of care and personal hygiene, such as perfumes, soaps, shampoos, deodorants, etc”.

Examples of dermocosmetics

The dermatologist highlighted that the assets used in the formulations of dermocosmetics often have several functions, not limited to the treatment of just one type of product. How about following, below, the list separated by her?

1. Facial hydration

”Hydration aims to prevent and treat dryness, replace the loss of water from the skin (or prevent the loss of water from the skin), in addition to softening and delaying the formation of wrinkles. It also has the function of retaining the action of free radicals that cause aging, through formulas with antioxidant elements, among which vitamins C and E stand out. of the skin are the fatty acids, which promote a more vibrant skin, help in cell regeneration and are considered a powerful moisturizer, antioxidant and astringent. As well as alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, mandelic and lactic acids), which perform a chemical exfoliation and promote tissue cell renewal that reach far beyond the skin’s surface. This gives the skin more shine, in addition to removing more superficial and recent stains”, he points out.

2. Acne treatment

In several acne products we find retinol, which is a substance derived from vitamin A. According to Joana, it is important for the beauty and health of the skin as it promotes cell renewal and performs a deep cleaning of the pores, preventing them from unclogging. In addition to retinol, the professional listed acids, which are allies in the treatment of oily and acne-prone skin. The most frequent actives in dermocosmetics for this purpose are: salicylic, glycolic and retinoic acid. “All of them promote skin renewal, exfoliate, unclog pores, soften scars and control excess oil”, she concludes.

3. Sun protection

In this photoaging category, sunscreens have the function of preventing the harmful action of solar radiation on the skin layers, not only superficial, but also preventing the appearance of allergic reactions due to contact with the sun until skin cancer.

”Today, we have photoimmunoprotectants, a class of sunscreens with the addition of substances responsible for maintaining the integrity of the immune system, that is, the skin’s defense system, protecting the DNA of skin cells and thus preventing the appearance of of cancer, in addition to skin aging”, he explains. Among these products, Joana highlights the Polypodium Leucotomos Extract (EPL), a photoimmunoprotectant of natural origin, which protects against sunburn and fights aging, with antioxidant, immunological and DNA-protecting effects. In addition to ferulic acid, which acts as a barrier to the cell membrane, minimizing the negative effects of exposure to UV radiation, two other photoimmunorpotters are caffeic acid and green tea. The first neutralizes free radicals and the second fights premature aging of cells. The dermatologist comments that all these substances can be associated in the same composition.

4. Bleachers

According to Joana, there is a range of substances with whitening properties, which can be used throughout the treatment in different amounts and even to maintain the results. The dermatologist drew attention to five actives. The first is cysteamine, which acts in the dark pigment formation cascade. The second is tranexamic acid, very indicated in dark spots that contain vessels.

Next comes hydroquinone. “One of the best-known whiteners, it also works by blocking the production of pigment, as well as “breaking up” the existing pigment particles in the stains; should only be used for a short time,” he explains. Followed by vitamin C, required for its high antioxidant power, but it even prevents the appearance of blemishes on the skin, such as melasma, marks caused by acne or sun exposure.

Finally, niacinamide, a substance with the function of reducing the production of melanin, in addition to lightening the spots, adapting to different skin types.

5. Specifics for hair care

”Used to control hair loss, dermocosmetics are good coadjuvants in the treatment of the problem. Today, we have hyaluronic acid used in different concentrations to hydrate the hair, to control frizz”, he points out. Some active principles present in these products are: minoxidil, reparage, biorestore and tamariliz.

Minoxidil is a vasodilator with the power to increase the arrival of nutrients to the capillary bulge. The second is indicated to increase the thickness of the wires, shielding the damaged wires. The biorestore, on the other hand, offers protection for hair and hair color; and tamariliz helps to preserve the hair, smoothing the cuticles – which improves shine and frizz.

6. Manipulated dermocosmetics

Joana clarifies that the manipulated are the most prescribed by dermatologists because of the formula, which suits the needs of each patient, with regard to assets, vehicle and concentration. “We were able to combine substances with concentrations many times higher than the industrialized ones or change the formulation according to the treatment phase, without wastage in quantity”, she adds.

When it comes to betting on this type of product, the question remains: where to buy and find a variety of options? To solve this question, we prepared the next topic!

Where to buy dermocosmetics

We chose some stores for you to buy dermocosmetics, properly prescribed by your dermatologist, huh. See below!

• Droga Raia: Pharmacy that carries a wide variety of brands recommended by dermatologists, such as La Roche-Posay, Vichy, Bioderma, among others.
• Onofre: It is also a pharmacy where you will find several options of dermocosmetics and excellent prices!
• Drogaria Araújo: Buy dermocosmetics for the face and body, with a wide range of brands and products.
• Americanas: That kind of store that has everything, with promotions and coupons for you to enjoy.
• Sephora: At Sephora, you will find, in addition to cosmetics, dermocosmetics from brands such as Clinique and Dermage.
• Drogasil: Another pharmacy option to buy the products prescribed by your dermatologist.

After knowing the particularities of this type of product and the places to buy it, it is super important to know more about care and contraindications!

Cautions and Contraindications

In our conversation, Joana clarified that the care around having guidance and indication of a dermatologist is the most important. The professional will describe the necessary care, such as, for example, many products that contain acids cannot be applied in the morning, due to the action of the sun.

”As for adverse reactions, it is necessary to be aware if the patient is not allergic to any of the components used in the formulas. But the composition can be made according to each case and also with the use of hypoallergenic. It is also important to point out that Dermocosmetics are classified by ANVISA at level 2, which follows a categorization based on studies and research, in a way that expands and further certifies their level of safety”, he concludes.

In addition, organizing dermocosmetics into a skincare routine collaborates even more to achieve results, functioning as a daily ritual, both day and night. And this constancy in the use of products is super necessary!